Ramírez de la Piscina, Crianza, Rioja Alta, Spain 2021

Beautiful 100% Tempranillo, oak-aged Rioja with great intensity, expression and harmony. Sourced from small, non-irrigated vineyard parcels at 500m-580m in San Vicente de la Sonsierra and Abalos (Rioja Alta), the destemmed fruit is fermented then transferred to a concrete tank for malolactic, then racked into used 225L French and American oak barrels to mature for 14 months. Full of appealing blueberry and gentle spice supported by smooth, velvety tannins, it's an elegant wine with real poise that still offers satisfying concentration. The finish is moreish and invites further drinking.

J Palacios Remondo, Finca La Montesa Crianza, Rioja Oriental, Spain 2022

Expressive and very well crafted, oak-aged Garnacha with hallmark characteristics of ripe wild strawberry and dried Mediterranean herbs. The oak is judiciously used here – spontaneous fermentation and malolactic are conducted in stainless steel tanks, followed by 12 months' ageing in oak barriques both new and used, mostly French with 10% American – delicately framing the wine and bringing a balsamic freshness. Both fruity and savoury at the same time, this is a great interpretation of Garnacha (with 6% of other local varieties) from the southeastern zones of Rioja around the village of Alfaro. Organic.

CM Matarromera, Oinoz Crianza, Rioja Alta, Spain 2022

A pretty serious Crianza – 100% Tempranillo from vines more than 40 years old in San Vicente de la Sonsierra, with the wine aged for 12 months in French and American oak barrels – this has all the character of the local area with depth on the palate, chalky tannins and some spice. It is elegant, refreshing and the tannins are really well managed. There is loads of appealing red berry fruit with just the right amount of spice – both savoury and fruity at the same time. Fabulous value.

El Canto de las Viñas, Crianza, Rioja Alavesa, Spain 2021

Cocoa, delicate woody spice and kirsch aromas open to a substantial and satisfyingly complex palate with judiciously used oak and a graphite freshness. Sourced from vineyards in Samaniego and Villabuena, Rioja Alavesa, the 100% Tempranillo fruit was destemmed and fermented in stainless steel tanks, then aged in medium-toast, new and used oak barrels (60% French, 40% American) for 12-14 months. There are tannins here but they are ripe and supportive, seamlessly framing the wine. It is peppery and a touch herbal with plenty of layers of fruit that speak to its origins. A classic oak-aged red from this part of Rioja.

Finca Nueva, Crianza, Rioja, Spain 2021

Bright, juicy, energetic Crianza, 100% Tempranillo and immediately appealing for its delicious, upfront drinkability. The vineyards are located near the village of Navarrete in Rioja Alta, planted in a north-northeast direction. Grapes are destemmed and left uncrushed, fermented with native yeasts in stainless steel tanks, then malolactic takes place in tank and the resulting wine is aged for 12 months in French and American oak barrels. Top notes of lavender, tarragon and curry hover over the plum and blackberry fruit. It really shows the purity and detail of the 2021 vintage. Lovely, invigorating coda of blood orange sweet-sourness.

Hacienda el Ternero, Torno Crianza, Rioja Alta, Spain 2021

Characterful, refreshing take on Crianza full of ripe red fruit (strawberry, plum, pomegranate) and ripe, fleshy citrus (blood orange, pink grapefruit). The citrus grip helps to define the tannins, which have a refreshing, assertive grip, and the flavours linger with vividness and the edgy crunch of cranberry and rhubarb. The 100% Tempranillo fruit is from the producer's youngest vineyards at 450m and 600m in the foothills of the Obarenes mountains, northwest of Haro, in Rioja Alta's far northern reaches. The wine undergoes just two weeks maceration on the skins with light daily pumpovers, then is aged for 12 months in used French oak barrels. A delicious wine, best enjoyed slightly chilled.

Hermanos Hernaiz, Finca La Emperatriz Tinto Viñedo Singular, Rioja Alta, Spain 2019

An elegant, well-crafted Reserva with a stony vibrancy, this is a blend of 71% Tempranillo, 25% Grenache and 4% Viura from old bush vines at 570m in Baños de Rioja, southwest of Haro in Rioja Alta. The fruit was destemmed and co-fermented using native yeasts in concrete tanks, then transferred for malolactic and 18 months' maturation in barrels, 60% of new french oak and 40% second-use American. With blueberry and red berry fruit, the wine offers intense spicy notes, a touch of black pepper and an elegant, direct structure. It is still really young and will develop gracefully over time.

Altanza, Familia Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2019

While Altanza is based in Fuenmayor, Rioja Alta, this wine is a 100% Tempranillo sourced from old vineyards in all three Rioja sub-regions; the wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks then aged for 18 months in new French oak barrels, followed by three more months in larger French oak foudres. Superb integration of both wood and alcohol lends a fragrant outline of camphor and almond skin to the juicy fruit core. The cherry, plum, red apple and sloe fruit is crunchy and pure, lifted by abundant oregano and tarragon. A comforting, lively, elegant Reserva.

Izadi, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2021

Invitingly sweet fruited on the palate, this is a rich and juicy wine with ripe tannins. It is somewhat driven by alcohol with a warm and spicy finish but it is otherwise bold and satisfying.

Remírez de Ganuza, Reserva, Rioja Alavesa, Spain 2018

Aged Rioja with intensity and finesse, this is a blend of 82% Tempranillo, 10% Viura, 6% Graciano and 2% Garnacha, sourced from parcels in the foothills of the Sierra Cantabria, mostly in Rioja Alavesa, with vines averaging 60 years of age – and only the 'shoulders' of the bunches are used for this wine. The oak is present – following fermentation of the destemmed fruit in stainless steel and concrete tanks of varying shapes and capacities, the wine is matured for 25 months in 225L oak barrels – but it's high-quality, bringing chocolatey and savoury notes with a nice graphite lift. There's intensity and concentration, but the acidity drives this wine and the fruit and tannins are ripe. A modern, polished wine with ageing potential.

Baigorri, Reserva, Rioja Alavesa, Spain 2019

Generous unctuosity of black olive tapenade, juicy prunes and green coffee beans, on a thick, moreish bed of sage, tarragon and tobacco leaves.

Bodegas Lan, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2019

Elegant yet muscular Reserva, with assertive edges softened by herbal and even balsamic freshness. Sage, thyme and tarragon mingle over prune and fig. Lovely fluidity throughout. Eucalyptus and mint provide intense fragrant lift while cardamom and nutmeg add lingering spicy freshness. Predominantly Tempranillo with small proportions of Garnacha and Mazuelo, from vines averaging 30-40 years in age in sites in Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa. Fermentation was in stainless steel tanks, followed by malolactic fermentation and 22 months ageing in 'hybrid' barrels consisting of American oak staves and French oak heads, of which about 25% were new, then a further 22 months in bottle before release.