Arizcuren, Monte Gatún, Vino de Quel, Rioja Oriental, Spain 2023

Delicious dynamic palate, distinctly layering cranberry, maraschino cherry, pink grapefruit and red plum. The vivid, refreshing tannins are drenched in blood orange and clementine and cloaked with sage, English Breakfast tea and cherry leaves. Elegant rusticity and lovely smoky edges in a quintessential Rioja Tempranillo-based blend (55%, with 20% Garnacha, 20% Mazuelo and 5% of Maturana and Graciano). The fruit is sourced from various plots in the Villa de Quel, north-facing at 530m-600m, and vinified separately using indigenous yeasts, then brought together before malolactic fermentation. The wine is aged for 12 months, 30% in Slavonian oak barrels and 70% in concrete tanks.

Domaine Canadell-Sánchez, Vino de Labastida, Rioja Alavesa, Spain 2023

This really shows the best that Tempranillo (in this case aged for 12 months in 225L French oak barrels) can do in Labastida, Rioja Alavesa. Nuanced and alluring nose of flint, gunpowder and graphite etched against plum and cherry. Such purity and focus on the palate with beautiful tannins, at once mineral and herbal. Everything is very much in place with superb balance of acid, fruit and alcohol. A fine wine but fundamentally, and quite simply, a joy to drink.

Victor Ausejo, Mazuelo, Vino de Alberite, Rioja Oriental, Spain 2023

Pure and energetic Mazuelo, so beautifully crafted, full of bright cherry, cranberry and pomegranate fruit lined with sage, thyme and oregano. Detailed and fine tannic scaffolding with an alluring smoky edge of tobacco and camphor. Sourced from vines planted in 1986 on ferrous clay soils in Alberite, Rioja Oriental, farmed with only organic fertiliser, no herbicides and minimal working of the soils. Spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel was followed by malolactic and maturation for 12 months in a mix of 400L and 225L French oak barrels and one 225L in Hungarian oak.

Viñedos de Sonsierra, El Rincón de los Galos Viñedo Singular, Rioja Alta, Spain 2019

Pure and vivid 100% Tempranillo from San Vicente de la Sonsierra, Rioja Alta, vines planted in 1943 in shallow sandy soils at 490m. Destemmed grapes were fermented in stainless steel tanks then the wine transferred to six 225L second-use French oak barrels, where it remained for 16 months without racking. A distinct mineral freshness runs through soft, fluid cranberry, cherry and bramble with a twist of blood orange and bergamot. Top, refreshing notes of thyme and forest floor. Lovely definition and zesty pull, with and red apple crunch and gentle spice lingering on the palate.

Aiurri, Salas Viñedo Singular, Vino de Leza, Rioja Alavesa, Spain 2023

Sourced from 2.6ha of vineyards dating back to 1911 in Leza, at the foot of the Sierra de Toloño in Rioja Alavesa. Up to 25 different varities and biotypes are present, including Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano, Benedicto, Viura, Mazuelo, Garro and Maturana Tinta. Vinified in batches with native yeasts, the wine the wine was matured for 19 months in French oak barrels of various sizes, and for a further month in oak casks after the final blending. Intense, deep nose of cherries, black plum and blackberry with sage, oregano and thyme playing in the background. The fruit is cradled by velvety tannins, so pretty and finely structured, and a gentle, comforting earthiness. A wine with great sense of place and deft use of oak. Gentle notes of petrichor and sage on the finish.

Carlos Sánchez, Veravier La Piedad, Vino de Labastida, Rioja Alavesa, Spain 2023

A moreish, endless finish is preluded by incredible textural complexity on the mid-palate and perfumed detail. Juicy citrus, layered with crunchy red and blue berries and succulent pink and white orchard fruit. Cherry pit and blood orange pith give it energy and edge. Really smart blending here, based on Garnacha and Tempranillo with smaller portions of Graciano and Viura, from vineyards in Rioja Alavesa planted in 1950 on sandy limestone soils. Whole bunches were fermented using indigenous yeasts, followed by malolactic and maturation for 18 months in 228L barrels, with the wine bottled unfined and unfiltered.

Creaciones Exeo, Letras, Vino de Labastida, Rioja Alavesa, Spain 2022

Seductively broody with Earl Grey, Turkish coffee, sage, thyme, saffron, outlined by an alluring smokiness, this is a blend of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Viura grown in the Barranco del Oso vineyard, planted in 1970 at 463m in Labastida, Rioja Alavesa. Fermented with native yeasts in stainless steel tanks, the wine underwent malolactic in casks and was then aged in 600L French oak barrels, half new and half second-use. At once juicy and earthy, with plum, prune and cherry jam layered with unctuous black olive tapenade – all perfectly offset by a zesty pull of bergamot. The tannins are savoury and beautifully positioned on the mid-palate, supporting a wide expansiveness.

Vinos en Voz Baja, Barrio Pastores, Vino de Aldeanueva de Ebro, Rioja Orienta, Spain 2024

Characterful and vibrant, there's mellifluous juiciness and pleasant sour edginess in this 100% Garnacha, grown in two vineyards at Aldeanueva de Ebro, close to the river in the southeast of Rioja Oriental. The whole bunches are foot-trodden in 3,000L French oak vats, with spontaneous fermentation and 11 months' maturation in the same vessels, after which the wine is bottle without filtration and minimal SO2 added. Sage, orenago, thyme, tarragon and petrichor over sour cherry, redcurrant and sloe, outlined by a spicy rim. Pure, perfumed and earthy – a characterful expression of Garnacha. Fresh, detailed, delicious, fun: all things Rioja can be.

Bodegas Tierra, Cien Reales de Fidel y Carlos Viñedo Singular, Vino de Labastida, Rioja Alavesa, Spain 2022

Great mineral precision, expressiveness and length, very Alavesa. 95% Tempranillo, 5% Garnacha, bush vines grown at 500m in vineyards planted in the 1980s. Fermentation with native yeasts takes place in open French oak vats, followed by malolactic in new 600L French oak barrels, then maturation over two winters in the same casks. Gravelly tannins, drenched in lemon and clementine juice. Plum, sour cherry and crunchy Russet apple at the core, cloaked in oregano, thyme and sage. Elegant, earthy rusticity plays in the background throughout. Will evolve beautifully in bottle.

La Carbonera, Las Pisadas, Vino de Labastida, Rioja Alavesa, Spain 2022

The flagship Vino de Municipio from the Familia Torres project in Rioja Alavesa, established in 2007, is a 100% Tempranillo from bush vines grown at 450m-650m in various sites in the Labastida area, on terraces and slopes of brown limestone, marl, chalk and sandstone. After fermentation in stainless steel tanks, the wine matures for nine and a half months in barriques mostly of French oak, with 3% American and 8.5% from Eastern Europe. Alluring smoky depth on the nose with tobacco leaves, Earl Grey, coffee beans, wet leaves against a juicy backdrop of plum, pomegranate and red apple. The palate follows with fluidity but also unctuous, moreish black olive tapenade and walnut pesto. Long, savoury finish with a touch of sweet spice.

Moraza, 4 Caminos Graciano Vińedo Singular, Vino de San Vicente de la Sonsierra, Rioja Alta, Spain 2019

So good to see Graciano (and San Vicente de la Sonsierra, Rioja Alta) expressed this way: dynamic, energetic, with a soulful, traditional slant. The single vineyard is located at a point where four paths meet, on sandy-clay soils at 530m, and it's a windy site. The grapes are destemmed, fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged in stainless steel tanks. The briny nose gives it aromatic nuance, echoed on the the alluring salinity and savoury edge that frames the crunchy red fruit. Lingering notes of green olive, white pepper and coriander seed. Organic.

Ondarre, Los Otros de Ondarre La Asomada, Vino de Viana, Rioja Oriental, Spain 2023

A juicy fruit core, full of plum, cherry and blackberry, is held by smart tannins – assertive but with a balsamic freshness – against an earthy backdrop of petrichor and Darjeeling tea. Cherry leaves, red apple peel and blood orange zest add nuance and vivid detail. 100% Tempranillo from bush vines in two vineyards of 0.5ha at 664m and 0.6ha at 690m on shallow, poor and varied soils in the north of the Rioja Oriental sub-region. The wine was both fermented and matured on the lees in a concrete egg tank.