Artuke, Trascuevas, Rioja, Spain 2024

Wonderful! Stony minerality and a flinty freshness mark this wine which is driven by precise, direct acidity. At the moment, it is young, tightly wound and concentrated with intense citrussy fruit, apple and pear, but it will develop with time. Salty on the finish, it is elegant, characterful and simply a fabulous white wine. Sourced from bush vines more than 50 years old, 90% Viura with 5% each of Malvasía and Palomino Fino, fermented with native yeasts in stainless steel tanks then aged for 10 months mostly in 500L French oak barrels, with a small portion in concrete tanks.

Bodegas Muga, Flor de Muga Reserva Blanco, Rioja, Spain 2022

A blend of Maturana, Garnacha Blanca and Viura from a range of sites with diverse soils. The free-run must, or 'mosto flor', is selected then fermented in lightly toasted new French oak casks. After resting on its lees for a few months, the wine is aged for six months in new French oak barrels, then spends 18 months in bottle before release. Fine mineral edge, salted almonds, wet stone, very poised. Crunchy pear with a pithy touch. Lingering spicy tail of white pepper, cardamom, nutmeg. My kind of wine, with a welcome austerity and intense backbone, finishing with a delicious touch of amaretto. Has a long life ahead of it.

Hacienda López de Haro, Classica Gran Reserva Blanco, Rioja Alta, Spain 2016

Deep and complex yet so playful, this is from bush vines averaging 65 years of age on limestone soils in the Sonsierra and on high-elevation, north-facing ferrous clay terraces in Alto Najerilla. Viura, Malvasía and Garnacha Blanca are co-fermented in stainless steel tanks using indigenous yeasts, then the wine is aged in a mix of new, second- and third-use oak barriques from France and Eastern Europe. Vivid, meaty apricot, loquat and clementine jam cloaked in oregano, thyme and curry leaf. Generously sprinkled with saffron and coriander seeds, and an appetising layer of honeycomb, almond tart and crème brûlée. Traditional in an unconventional, mischievous way.

Alonso & Pedrajo, Suañé Melangé Gran Reserva Blanco, Rioja, Spain 2015

This vibrates through the palate with electric energy and layered playfulness. It's a blend of 80% Viura and 20% Sauvignon Blanc, the former from vines more than 70 years old at 615m in Villalba. Fermented with native yeasts, the wine was transferred halfway through to finish in 228L French oak barrels, where it then aged initially for 12 months with weekly stirring, before moving again to a 500L French oak bocoy for a further 77 months of maturation. Salty almonds, caramel and honeycomb weave among red apple, nectarine, loquat and apricot. Nutty, meaty texture is offset by lively clementine and blood orange zest, with notes of sage, saffron and bergamot. At once so intellectual and so fun; just delicious.

Carlos Sánchez, 1er Los Montes Bellos del Buradòn Blanco, Vino de Pueblo de Labastida, Rioja Alavesa, Spain 2022

Such a vibrant, energetic and characterful wine, with great focus throughout, this is 100% Viura from vines planted in 1970 on calcareous lime marls with sandy topsoils, the wine fermented in new Burgundy barrels then aged first for 12 months on its fine lees, then a further eight months in older 400L barrels. Charming toasty smokiness and intense nuttiness softened by fragrant camomile, hay and a touch or turmeric. Subtle background notes of bay leaf and rosemary oil, adding balsamic unctuosity. Long, nuanced and evocative – a wine to enjoy at length.

Hermanos Hernaiz, Finca La Emperatriz Reserva Blanco Viñedo Singular, Rioja Alta, Spain 2019

Precise, with driven, elegant acidity, this is a really classy white Reserva with just a hint of evolution, green fruit, lime and some salty freshness. It is of its origin with a northern acidity and vertical structure that points to evolution to come. Citrus fruit, wet stone, green apple and white peach combine with a stony vibrancy and tension to create an elegant and moreish, great white of Rioja. 100% Viura from 50- to 65-year-old bush vines at 570m, growing on a layer of white pebbles covering a loose, sandy subsoil. Fermented in concrete tanks and 225L oak barriques, then matured for eight months in concrete and nine months in a mix of new, second- and third-use French oak barrels.

Luis Alegre, Finca La Reñana Blanco, Rioja Alavesa, Spain 2021

A classy wine that neatly balances wet stone, lemon pith and delicate oak. From vines at 600m on mostly clay-loam soils, 95% Viura and 5% Malvasía are fermented in French oak barrels then aged in those barrels and large casks for eight months, with lees stirring twice a week. The wine is textured and chiselled but also offers a certain generosity on the palate that speaks to a particular type of Riojan balance. Despite its age, it displays an impressive tension that will slowly open over the coming years. A wine of its region and vintage.

Martínez Lacuesta, Hinia Reserva Blanco, Rioja Alta, Spain 2021

Classically aged 100% Viura with an oxidative character that is immediately appealing. The fruit is from vines at least 45 years old at 430m-500m near Haro – the fossil shells in the clay-limestone soils are known as hinia. It is made in a more traditional style and it works – the 2021 was fermented and left on its fine lees for 30 days, then rested for 10 months before transferral to 225L French oak barrels where it was refined for a further 26 months. Lemon and citrus peel combine with delicate floral aromas and well-integrated nougaty oak that opens to a structured palate, framed by coffee and caramel, savoury oak. It is ready to drink, but will age gracefully. Wonderfully evocative.

Bodegas Tierra, Cifras Blanco, Vino de Pueblo de Labastida, Rioja Alavesa, Spain 2022

Mezcal-like salty lime reveals the northern, cooler origin of this 100% Garnacha Blanca. The fruit is sourced from two Alavesa vineyards, respectively 20 and 80 years old, and the wine is fermented in concrete egg tanks where it is also matured for 12 months on the lees. It displays lime and dried Mediterranean herbs that open to a substantial palate that is still driven by citrussy acidity and supported by stony minerality. The evolution of this wine is really impressive and is perfect to drink right now. Classy.

Remírez de Ganuza, Olagar Gran Reserva Blanco, Rioja Alta, Spain 2019

Fruit for this 100% Viura wine is grown in a 1.45ha single plot of bush vines planted in 1978 at 600m. The free-run must is fermented and matured for 11 months in new French oak barrels, which are turned occasionally to gently agitate the lees. Top notes of linden, rose and camphor on an ethereal nose, the palate following with textural, chalky expressiveness, balancing minerality with the deft, smoky wood influence. Fleshy white orchard and adds to the appea, balanced by lemon curd creaminess. Long and vibrant with a tail of pear peel and sweet spice.

Bárbara Palacios, Valtracones Blanco, Rioja Alta, Spain 2023

Beautifully crafted 100% Garnacha Blanca, which is sourced from a 0.6ha plot of bush vines at 520m. Here the oak is very judiciously used with fine grain that brings delicate smoky scaffolding to the wine, which was fermented in a stainless steel tank then rested for 10 months, with twice-weekly batonnage, in a fifth-use 500L French oak barrel. The acid is elegant and fine with a green apple mouthwatering finish. Lemon, pear, white floral aromas point to the variety but the structure is decidedly northern and from a cooler zone of Rioja. It will develop further in bottle.

Bodegas Bhilar, Phincas Thousand Mils, Rioja Alavesa, Spain 2021

This has benefited from time in bottle and is now very expressive. Delicate stone fruit mingles with lemon, apple and pear with stony minerality and really appealing, sweet oak. There's just a touch of vanilla on the finish which adds a touch of sweetness and is a nod to classic styles of Rioja white, produced with a modern approach. A biodynamic blend of 65% Viura with Garnacha Blanca, Malvasía, Palomino and other experimental grapes, the destemmed fruit is fermented with native yeasts in concrete tanks, then aged first for 12 months in 2,000L French oak foudre, then 24 months in 500L barrel.

Bodegas Nivarius, Edición Limitada, Rioja, Spain 2021

Deserving of time to open up in the glass, this slowly reveals wonderful complexity and character. The blend of 70% Viura and 30% Maturana Blanca (grown at 500m-600m and 800m respectively) works beautifully to create a wine that really speaks to Rioja's potential in whites. Mineral and textural with just enough creaminess, it is full of spring meadow flowers, apple and white peach. The oak is subtle, discreetly supporting the fruit. Fermented then aged for nine months on the lees in French oak barrels, with the lees stirred three times a week.

Marqués de Riscal, Barón de Chirel Rioja Viñas Centenarias, Rioja, Spain 2024

Fine and assertive, with remarkable poise and focus. Deft use of wood, building a toasty, almondy frame around the fleshy white peach and yellow apple core. Precise and fluid with a pleasantly tense acid line, assertive lemon zest and Conference pear crunch. A wine that delivers a lot without trying too hard. Beautiful, laidback modern classicism. Viura, Garnacha Blanca, Malvasía and Maturana Blanca bunches were pressed whole, without destemming or crushing, and the free-run must transferred to 600L French oak foudres, no more than 10% new, where spontaneous fermentation was followed by about eight months' maturation, with weekly lees stirring via rotation of the barrels.

Bodegas Tobia, Óscar Tobía Reserva Blanco, Rioja Alta, Spain 2019

Clearly Reserva in style with creamy, generous oak but a fresh, driven and lemony core, this is a complex blend led by Maturana Blanca, Viura and Chardonnay with smaller amounts of Tempranillo Blanco and other varieties. The vines are in sites of varying ages and locations, with elevations ranging from 450m upto an extreme of 800m for some of the Chardonnay. The wine is fermented for a month in light-toast, new oak barrels, half French and half American, followed by further ageing for 28 months in the same barrels. Lifted aromas of white florals and a green pea freshness. Complex, layered and very satisfying, and despite the obvious ageing, it has the drive and structure to develop further in bottle.

Tronado Wines, Capitán Trueno Blanco, Vino de Pueblo de Labastida, Rioja Alavesa, Spain 2023

Gorgeous. Equal quantities of whole-bunch Malvasía and destemmed Viura are fermented with native yeasts, then matured in a 500L French oak bocoy cask. Textural and expressive, layering honeyed almond, pear and quince with zesty white grapefruit and lime juice, with a pisco sour edginess. Earthy toasted almond and dry hay play in the background. Invigorating electric energy running through it. Such a pleasurable pour.

Bodegas Queirón, Mi Lugar Tempranillo Blanco, Rioja Oriental, Spain 2022

An assertive, well-honed framework of salted Marcona almond and buttered croissant outlines the clementine and yellow apple fruit. A distinct and alluring single malt-like pithiness gives the wine character and depth. Elegant, with poise and edge. Long spicy tail. Deft use of wood brings Tempranillo Blanco's identity and potential into focus.

Viña Salceda, Entresierras, Rioja, Spain 2023

Absolutely delicious, enlivened by mineral verve and briny salinity. Gently toasty and appetisingly creamy with a bed of lemon curd, frangipane and almond pie. A wine with moreish expressiveness and an edge of mountainous freshness.

Vivanco, La Isla Pie Franco Blanco Viñedo Singular, Rioja Alta 2020

From an ungrafted massal selection of Viura bush vines (with interpersed Malvasía, Garnacha Blanca and Calagraño) planted in 1973, grown close to the Ebro at up to 440m near Briones in Rioja Alta. Fermented and aged for 12 months in second- and third-use, extra-fine-grain 500L French oak barrels. Expressive, seductive nose of roasted almonds, beeswax and quince. Unctuous and wide on the mid-palate with pear jam and lemon curd coating the pear, guava and quince fruit at the core. Tingling rim of white pepper, fennel seed, cardamom and oregano seeds. Long finish with a savoury tail of toasted almond. Organic.